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Pastry Chefs, A Dying Breed, Battle Headwinds With Creativity, Innovation

November 22, 2018: 12:00 AM EST
A post-recession return to homier desserts coupled with rising restaurant labor and operating costs have been rough on the nation’s pastry chefs. In fact, pastry chefs appear to be a dying breed at today’s upscale restaurants. To fight the trend, survivors have re-imagined old-fashioned, all-American pies and layer cakes, using alternative grains and sweeteners, imported herbs, and forms that give the desserts a new look. To save money, however, today’s desserts tend to be large-format and therefore more economical than complexly plated individual ones. Today’s dwindling community of pastry chefs knows that they have to make dessert seem essential by rethinking comfort and indulgence while still offering a taste of nostalgia.[Image Credit: © Milktooth]
"As Pastry Chefs Decline in Ranks, a Revolution in Cakes and Pies", The New York Times , November 22, 2018, © The New York Times Company
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