The Search For A Healthful Whole-Grain Bread That Appeals To The Masses

February 18, 2020: 12:00 AM EST

Bread makers who consider themselves purists – healthful ingredients only, no preservatives or other additives, no pre-slicing, no pan baking, and no plastic packaging – have had to deal with a harsh reality: the market often rejects what they’re selling. As Vermont baker Blair Marvin discovered, some compromise has been necessary though the goal – a soft, sliced, affordable, and healthful whole wheat bread – is still the goal. So Marvin and colleagues in a baking collective that is helped by the famous Bread Lab of Washington State University are working toward making a whole-grain loaf that’s familiar-looking and affordable enough to appeal to a mass audience. The result, dubbed “The Approachable Loaf,” is now made in 20 states, as well as in England, Canada, and Australia. Disguised as a standard-issue sandwich bread that kids will eat, the loaf contains fiber and other nutritious ingredients, but no chemical preservatives or additives (i.e., flavor enhancers or sugars), found in mass-produced whole-wheat breads.[Image Credit: © Wolfgang Eckert from Pixabay]

Amelia Nierenberg, "The Whole-Grain Grail: A Sandwich Bread With Mass Appeal", The New York Times, February 18, 2020, © The New York Times Company

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